My buddy had this problem when he got a new swobo.It was not tight enough form the factory, skidded and tightened, skidded ad tightened it until the hub threads were all but gone. Id recommend taking it off, really looking to make sure neither is stripped. If both are okay then either pack on a bunch of phil grease (or if youre happy with the gearing some loctite), then wrench the f*cker on really tight.

Ive slipped a cog off a couple times, now for the street I really wrench that thing on. Havent had a problem in a long while. Then again I dont skid as much.

white folks:

thats the shit he lets outta his shop?

I wasn't going to start dropping shit like this yet, but I was REALLY bummed last night. As I said I'm going to call later and give em a chance to make it right. I'm sure they will...

I also had the same thing happen to a friend with a swobo. Rota-fixed it on there and tightened the lockring and it's been good but I'd check on everything doug said.

When I got my bike from Veloce (brand new frame and cranks, used Phil BB) it was clicky and creaky almost immediately. I took it back a couple weeks after and they took it in on a saturday around lunch and got it back to me that day. They should for sure hook it up.

Word. Yeah the hub and everything is all new...Hard to tell yet if love the gearing as of now. Felt pretty perfect last night...What's the method for getting a lock-tighted cog/lockring off? Just a shat-load of elbow grease?

hold on now, lets not locktite that shit yet. or rotofix it. thats the stuff you do when you dont have a lockring. something is preventing the lockring from tigtening up against the cog. reverse threaded lockrings are industry standard because installed properly they work really damn well. the cog just has too much room on the threads so the lockring cant hold it on. where do you live? the only shit I got going on today is the tabor race so if you want help, whisper me for my address and come on over to the shop.

David lives downtown and boy needs to get his shit fixed up proper so he can come ride with us!
Let Doug take care of you, man knows his shit.

Doug...you are the man. Your offer is appreciated. I am actually working until 5:00 today which puts me home around 5:30...Thoughts? What time is this race you speak of? BTW "home" = SW 2nd near the Ross Island Bridge...

Wait... what is the brand of the hub and what is the brand of the cog?

I'm going with Doug, don't fuck with loctite. It's totally unnecessary. With a big chainwhip (leverage totally makes a difference) and a lot of grease, you can get a cog as tight as you need on any hub Formula or better.

Velocity hubs = Formula, so unless someone really mangled the hub it shouldn't be that.

white folks:

I was sure the frame was gonna buckle or the Z chain was gonna amputate my leg....

Bahaha.

4 foot cheater on the crank arm?? Rotafixing doesn't use the chainring or crankarm. You tighten or loosen by turning the back wheel. The chain is laying on the BB.

white folks:

rotofixing uses the torque multiplication supplied by your gear ratio, I once had a cog stuck so tight not only did i have to rotofix it off, I had take off a pedal and put a 4 foot cheater bar over the end of the crank arm. I was sure the frame was gonna buckle or the Z chain was gonna amputate my leg....

I was running into this same problem, on my bike. I tried to put on a cheap no name stamped steel cog just to try a 17 tooth cog, but the cog was narrower than the threads on the hub, so the lockring couldn't hold it on.

I've never met a cog I couldn't get to stick or a stuck cog I couldn't unstick. of course now that I said that i'm fucked....

No, harm intended Doug. I should have reworded that comment. I was just wondering if there was a different way to rotafix by using the crankarms. Also you did say you rotafixed it off "not only did i have to rotofix it off,". At least that what it sounds like to me. Anyways sorry beers on me.

letdownloser:

Not sure on the brand of the cog, but it' s a Velocity hub. Just got off the phone with Demitri and apparently he has seen a few issues with certain lockrings in the past 6-7 months. He said if I head over there he'll grease up the cog and get it tight, and then throw on a larger lockring which he said would take care of it...Let's hope so.

Wooo Dimitri is my boy!

white folks:

read that one more time friend, the part where i write that i did not rotofix it off, but used the bikes gearing to take off a cog that had been rotofixed on.

plus if your gonna call me out about some wrenching why not whisper me? what exactly are you trying to get at?

no.. you said you DID rotofix it. but that's okay i understand if you typoed i mean we do live together and have been dating for a few years so i'm willing to put up with it.

d3fold:

No, harm intended Doug. I should have reworded that comment. I was just wondering if there was a different way to rotafix by using the crankarms. Also you did say you rotafixed it off "not only did i have to rotofix it off,". At least that what it sounds like to me. Anyways sorry beers on me.

i see what your saying. I am terrible at typing and it takes me so long to write one sentence that by the time i'm at the end of it, well shit there i go again...anyways no hard fellings.

just ask amy, i'm not only deaf but apparently i forget things alot.

I've learned to check and rerecheck my cog/lockring tightness. I stripped(ruined) 4 formula hub lockring threads on alexrims before I finally went out and got a surly lockring, which is considerably thicker, meaning it covers more of the lockring threads on the hub. It still took 2 hours of tightening, checking, and retightening to get it safely on. Cheap lockrings and hubs scare the shit out of me now. Feeling that complete lack of expected pressure is a bad experience. 185 lbs without a bag and a tendency to never use a brake make a secure drivetrain an absolute necessity. I can't believe the janky hoopties I rode when I started riding fixed.

Dura ace is NJS

Phil cogs are meaaaan with their mirror polish, and supposed to be some of the quietest around to boot.

If you get Phil hubs, here's a helpful hint: if the shop is a certified Phil dealer, you can order them with the black seals instead of standard red for no upcharge and they have far less drag and are supposed to paradoxically be better sealed as well. But the red sealed bearings will last many years too...

You'd have to email Phil Wood to find that out, but they have great customer service. The black seals are "performance low drag" according to Phil.

If I were to ever get Phil hubs I'd defiantly get the low drag seals, seems like a no brainer. But if you wanted to really go crazy, and I mean stupid doo doo dumb, full ceramic is the way to go. How cool would it be to have these things in some Phils as a track only wheelset.

Either that our get a nice loose ball hubset (dura ace, record, promax) takeout the dust seals and run looseball ceramics with low drag lube.

I want to wake up next to Phil Wood every morning.

i heard ceramics sucked.