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Bike Related: Bottom bracket noises / Time to change it up

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  1.  
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      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 12th 2008 edited
     

    So my bottom bracket has been clicking since last winter, didnt think that was too big of an issue. But recently its start making some really messed up noises, like my meat grinder sound during last Radderday's sprints. After today (I was dragging a trailer and is was sounding kind of bad) im getting a little scared to ride my Sputnik I fear I may be causing permanent damage. So here is the other issue, my crankset is stripped so removing will be quite the operation so I figure I may as well only do it once and replace it. Im really debating whether its safe (and if im up to it) racing FTF tomorrow.

    Im looking to possibly getting the FSA carbon track (seems about on par with the Sugino 75s, but can be picked up even cheaper, plus itd go with my FSA seatpost). Oh and FSA just came out with a new 2008 track crank design, but I dont know if its worth the extra $$. Anyone have any experience with this crank? Anyone have any advice to getting a stripped crankset off the spindle? Should I just take it to a shop to get it off or are there other methods?

    Thanks for any help you can lend.

  2.  

    i dont know how but i think you should replace that bottom bracket ASAP!

    •  
      CommentAuthorbschultz
    • CommentTimeJun 12th 2008
     

    When I experience clicking/creaking it's usually just loose chainring bolts... not sure about your situation, though.

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 12th 2008
     

    Hm. I will try the chain ring bolts tonight. But I think the clicking came from the bottom bracket, I talked to Veloce a long time ago and they thought it just needed some grease in it.

    Im thinking of getting these:
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=47
    http://www.ebikestop.com/fsa_carbon_pro_track_175_mm_49t_isis_cset_144bcd-CR3743.php
    But this new crank is kinda sexy too…
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=24435&category=1627
    If anyone can beat the prices above please by all means let me know.

    •  
      CommentAuthorfreebird
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    FSA stuff is really nice. I don't care what people say, but I've been hammering on a set of vigorelli cranks for over five years with no problems (except the non-drive arm falling off occasionally. Something that has to do with backpedalling and the ISIS interface. I fixed it with locktite and some torque).

    The new ones look dope, and will match your stealth bike, but it looks like they're backordered and cost a grip more than last years model. It's your munnies.

    As far as removing ruined cranks from a ruined bottom-bracket, I have done these things, none of which I recommend:

    Cut thru the top of the crank arm at the spindle with a dremel. Beat with hammer.

    Cheap two-arm gear puller on drive side. Bash with hammer.

    Two-man, two-screwdriver lever action. Don't forget to hammer.

    Do you has hammer, grimm?

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Thanks. I has teh hammer.

    Im leaning towards last years model, cause Ive never heard any complaints and the new on is probably only marginally stiffer and I honestly dont think that a slightly stiffer crank is going to help me that much.

    Ill order a new cranks tonight or tomorrow. Then itll be Hammer TIme once they get here. Haha.

    • CommentAuthorkrystenr
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     
    grimm:

    Thanks. I has teh hammer.

    Im leaning towards last years model, cause Ive never heard any complaints and the new on is probably only marginally stiffer and I honestly dont think that a slightly stiffer crank is going to help me that much.

    Ill order a new cranks tonight or tomorrow. Then itll be Hammer TIme once they get here. Haha.

    Haha, makes me think of Tool Time. Tim Allen!

    •  
      CommentAuthorMIN
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    I rode the FSA carbons on a buddy's Fuji Track Pro, nice cranks. Seems plenty stiff, but so was the bike.

    I'd replace the cranks if they are stripped, personally. What kind of BB are you currently using? Loose ball or cartridge? The FSA is ISIS so if that's not what you have now I suppose your current BB is irrelevant if you are replacing the cranks.

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008 edited
     

    Jamis's site says it came with an FSA Powerdrive. ISIS 68x108 cartridge. So I could theoretically use the same BB. But im thinking the creaking is coming from the BB anyways. Besides this new BB is called the "Platinum Pro MegaQuad". Any cycling component with the word 'MegaQuad' must add like 10 horsepower to my quads, right? Hahaha.

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      CommentAuthorMIN
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Hey I just googled that crankset and it uses an ISIS 108mm, you can use the same BB. I would try to overhaul it. It's probably a shot bearing. But then again BB are so cheap as to be disposable.

    ...and that's a funny name. HAHAH.

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Yeah, the BB in there is worth about $21. I think after nearly two years of service its expendable.

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008 edited
     

    Pulled the trigger and bought it all from universal cycles. Cost a couple bucks more but I got a diff chain and figured I would rather have the money stay local as possible. Their price match feature is the bomb.

    Anyone wanna help me wrench this sucker together sometime next week? If all goes well I can still race the Tabor fixed next week.




    If anyone wants a DA cog for $17 and not have to pay shipping use Universal Cycles price match against Bike Stops sale price then do an in store pick up. :)

    • CommentAuthorkrystenr
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    grimm, I'd totally be done to help you put that shit togetha.

    •  
      CommentAuthorfreebird
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Wrench nite. Tuesday. I has der hammerers.

  15.  

    i has secret german techniques for removing strippers clothing er...uh i mean stripped crank arms. I'd like a crack at it before hammer time. it involves ninjas and the flaming wrench aka, thread maker and a mapp torch.

    •  
      CommentAuthorfreebird
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Good enough for a tig'd frame, but keep your gotdamn mapp gas away from my brazed bootom brackets.

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      CommentAuthorMIN
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    whew, I just spend the last couple of hours installing a new cranks myself...I removed a giga gxp bb and replace it with a square taper, it required two different tools. Make sure you have a parks external bb remover.

    •  
      CommentAuthorMIN
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    oops, nevermind that's not an external bb. sorry.

    •  
      CommentAuthorJennx
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    i probably have the worst sounding bottom bracket in all of history.....creaky/clicking/randomly unscrewing itself!!!! it's awesome.

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008 edited
     

    Hopefully I can pick up my parts on Tues. That would work out rad for wrench night.

    Your ninja-flaming-wrench crank method really intrigues me Doug. As much as I love banging on things maybe lets try that first.
    Im hard on my BBs or something. I think every bike I own creak or clicks. This one just got to the point I thought permanent damage could occur.

    Greg, you install campy cranks on your Lemond like you wanted to?

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Just checked my email. Universal Cycles says my order can be picked up at 1p on Tues. Sweet!

    •  
      CommentAuthorMIN
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Yeah, I got Campy Record new old stock cranks on the cheap. 9-speed ISO taper road (135mm BCD). I am using the stock 42t in the outer position. Lovely cranks, the finish is understated but flawless and slightly pearlescent.

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Sounds sexy.
    Hows the chainline on the outer ring of the spider? On my conversion my chainline is better when the ring is on the inside, but maybe its due to the BB or something.

    •  
      CommentAuthorMIN
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    It's standard road chainline, so 46mm on the outside postion with the ISO 102mm BB (shortest you can get.) I had measured my rear chainline to be at 44mm. So I got a cog spacer. Cog spacer = BB spacer, and you can use up to 2-3mm of it between the hub shoulder and cog to align the chainline. I will be using a 1.5mm spacer. I figure 46mm front and 45.5mm rear is close enough and I don't want to use a 2mm spacer because I might run out of threads on the hub. I haven't installed the cog spacer yet but even now the drivetrain is much quieter going from a 3mm to 2mm differential in chainline. Same chain. Interesting experiment actually. I don't claim to be an expert this though.

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeJun 13th 2008
     

    Thanks. Still more than I know. Slowly gaining knowledge in the drivetrain area.

    • CommentAuthorkrystenr
    • CommentTimeJun 16th 2008
     
    grimm:

    Sounds sexy.
    Hows the chainline on the outer ring of the spider? On my conversion my chainline is better when the ring is on the inside, but maybe its due to the BB or something.

    Mmm, sexy. Campy Records. Yum.

  27.  
    Jennx:

    i probably have the worst sounding bottom bracket in all of history.....creaky/clicking/randomly unscrewing itself!!!! it's awesome.

    Jenn, from what I remember you have the pink kyoto loco 75's on the campy centaur that dean was recommending for a bit. I didn't know this then, but he is now recommending against that. I hate to say this but there are two ways to go, either spend the money on the sugino super lap bottom bracket ($100) or get another centaur and hope for the best. I'd really reccomend against pting it on anything other than the 75/the campy or a phil BB. the ISO taper of the campy and the phil is close enough to the Sakae Ringyo taper on the 75's.

    whisper me if you need a cheaper solution (i have a campy record loose ball that'll work)

  28.  

    Ben, my e-mail to FSA hasn't yeilded shit. I'm gonna ask around. That shit should not be doing that. not for that kinda money.

    •  
      CommentAuthorfreebird
    • CommentTimeJun 23rd 2008
     

    What's going on with your cranks grimm?

    •  
      CommentAuthorJennx
    • CommentTimeJun 24th 2008
     
    white folks:
    Jennx:

    i probably have the worst sounding bottom bracket in all of history.....creaky/clicking/randomly unscrewing itself!!!! it's awesome.

    Jenn, from what I remember you have the pink kyoto loco 75's on the campy centaur that dean was recommending for a bit. I didn't know this then, but he is now recommending against that. I hate to say this but there are two ways to go, either spend the money on the sugino super lap bottom bracket ($100) or get another centaur and hope for the best. I'd really reccomend against pting it on anything other than the 75/the campy or a phil BB. the ISO taper of the campy and the phil is close enough to the Sakae Ringyo taper on the 75's.

    whisper me if you need a cheaper solution (i have a campy record loose ball that'll work)

    yah it's a campy chorus. I haven't seen dean since he took it apart quick and put it back together which was a day or two after you messed with it. i might be able to switch out with him since he was the one who put that combo together. meh who knows.

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