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Lots of talk about the superiority of track frames for fixed in the city.
Convince me.
Only rule, no talking about drop-outs. My Raleigh conv accommodates chain tensioning just fine.
I just don't see the point. But convince me.
Fire away.
So other than drop outs whats the diff besides geometry, which is really what your discussion is about. Besides having geometry that will will be 'tighter' or 'twitchy' (depending on how you look at it), the only advantage I can see is a higher bottom bracket which which is good when you have to pedal through corners.
Main reason I'm asking. I really don't see the "advantage" of track frames on the street.
And you get the bottom clearance but lose toe clearance.
^^ yeah, basically. they aren't "superior," but a frame really built well for the track is built for speed over short distances, which can be fun for <10 mile city rides, IMO.
that being said lots of "track" frames that are coming out now are basically road frames with track ends, and ride accordingly...
Aesthetically, I really like the look of a track frame.
That's all I got. Road geometries are so much more comfortable for everyday riding.
generalizations here:
Road frames
longer rides more comfort.
slower steering (increased rake) = less twitch more predictable
Track frames
faster steering
stiffer ride
smaller wheelbase
(the horizontal slots on the rear of a track bike are not called drop outs , they are rear fork ends, only dropouts exist on a road frame)
Many frames nowadays in terms of geometry are somewhere between track and road, ie a Raleigh Rush Hour, not a pure track geometry, little more relaxed around teh head tube / seat tube I think
Yea, a lot of the lower end ones seem to be road/tour geometry. Which I'm fine with.
The other thing I'm confused on is whether or not people riding the city like being comfortable. With a tight frame, high flange hubs + deep Vs, and these "slimline" seats, it's really gotta be like sitting on a tattoo gun.
jbucky1:generalizations here:
Road frames
longer rides more comfort.
slower steering (increased rake) = less twitch more predictableTrack frames
faster steering
stiffer ride
smaller wheelbase(the horizontal slots on the rear of a track bike are not called drop outs , they are rear fork ends, only dropouts exist on a road frame)
Many frames nowadays in terms of geometry are somewhere between track and road, ie a Raleigh Rush Hour, not a pure track geometry, little more relaxed around teh head tube / seat tube I think
Thanks for the facts, but that's old news.
Wheres the persuasion?
max - aren't issues with toe overlap only limited to smaller bikes, ie 48/50/52 perhaps 54 ?
no persuasion, i don't think it matters what you ride.
jbucky1:max - aren't issues with toe overlap only limited to smaller bikes, ie 48/50/52 perhaps 54 ?
I thought so as well. Then I rode a 58cm and almost ate shit.
Of course I have size 13 shoes and ride LL clips. So maybe there's no issue if you are tall AND have small feet.
To be fair though, the overlap was less than smaller bikes I've seen.
I have toe overlap on my 57cm, especially with LL toe clips (which is one of the smaller reasons I run clipless now, which helps clearance significantly). Dumb size 13 feet.
You can ride whatever you want, I like have track drops personally. I mean if something comes loose the wheel can only move forward a little. I also like that track frames often dont have cable guides or braze ons, which keeps it looking nice and simple. But as far as geometry it is also kind of a personal thing.
Ride whatever makes you happy.
once you fall a couple of times overlap is easy to work around. i have it on a 59cm bike.
i don't think anyone here is a track frame zealot - if you've tried riding them and didn't like it, just ride a road frame.
true, I have a 58/58cm and use clipless 10.5 shoe, it's close but I clear by only about 10mm.
Oh yea, I didn't think people were hating on here.
I was more curious than defensive.
And I did figure out the work around on my overlap, when I ate shit it was an emergency and my body forgot.
I have a little toe overlap and it doesn't bother me. I don't have to be conscious of it or anything. I like track frames because they are more fun to ride, imho. I do mostly short rides within the city, <10, and have never had an issue with comfort. As mentioned before, they have a higher bottom bracket for better pedal clearance. As far as the steering goes, I wouldn't call it twitchy. They steer themselves. You steer a lot with leaning. It's almost like a motorcycle. I love it. Way more fun than a road bike!
I'd love to hear what people who ride long distances on track bikes have to say. Is it really impractical? STINE?
i dont know max. i dont think it has to be one or the other. i mean when Gunslinger gives birth to little FuckFace Jr. it will be a mixie fixie for sure. One Love.
playground_terror:i dont know max. i dont think it has to be one or the other. i mean when Gunslinger gives birth to little FuckFace Jr. it will be a mixie fixie for sure. One Love.
Hell yeah, rep the mixte fixie baby.
Yea, but if it's anything like it's father it will be short as shit.
krystenr:playground_terror:i dont know max. i dont think it has to be one or the other. i mean when Gunslinger gives birth to little FuckFace Jr. it will be a mixie fixie for sure. One Love.
Hell yeah, rep the mixte fixie baby.
not mixte, mixie.
I rode my track bike on the road all last winter. It was a steel Rush, but the 75/75 geometry and short chainstays beat me up after a while. A more relaxed seat tube takes quite a bit of road buzz off of you. You can use a carbon post for a little bit of comfort, but every bump and pothole goes straight to your ass when you're running a steep seat tube.
If you setup your fit more like a road bike (ie: no deep drops, saddle sitting back on the post), it's a little more comfortable on long distances. I didn't like having to run such a short stem to get the right fit, though.
Toe overlap is a moot point, I think. My road bike has toe overlap. Unless you're doing a lot of low-speed maneuvering, it won't ever get in the way. If that's the case, you're probably better off on a mountain bike or BMX, where the geometry is more suited for low-speed handling.
yonderboy:I rode my track bike on the road all last winter. It was a steel Rush, but the 75/75 geometry and short chainstays beat me up after a while. A more relaxed seat tube takes quite a bit of road buzz off of you. You can use a carbon post for a little bit of comfort, but every bump and pothole goes straight to your ass when you're running a steep seat tube.
If you setup your fit more like a road bike (ie: no deep drops, saddle sitting back on the post), it's a little more comfortable on long distances. I didn't like having to run such a short stem to get the right fit, though.
Toe overlap is a moot point, I think. My road bike has toe overlap. Unless you're doing a lot of low-speed maneuvering, it won't ever get in the way. If that's the case, you're probably better off on a mountain bike or BMX, where the geometry is more suited for low-speed handling.
So would you suggest keeping the seat post lower? And does a carbon seat post really makes a big difference feeling-wise? Aside from feeling potholes and what not, any other complaints?
Keep your seat height where it would be normally. If you move your seat fore/aft, it'll have to raise/lower a few mm to keep the same distance from your BB spindle. Seat position is pretty important when riding a fixed gear, IMHO. You'll feel some discomfort above or below your knees if it's too low or high, respectively.
I'm on the fence about carbon posts. I have one on my road bike, but I don't really think it makes all that much of a difference for the big hits. My current track frame runs a pretty large seatpost, but I just went with an aluminum post.
The main thing I didn't like about riding my track bike on the street was how beat up I felt after a long ride. If I was going to build another road fixed gear, I'd probably run a more road-like geometry.
I have some input based on my recent transition from a true track geometry bike to a road geometry bike.
I did a fixed century on my recently sold Pista which I had retrofitted with a carbon road (43mm rake) fork. No toe-overlap on 55cm size and not twitchy like a track fork (~28mm rake.) With that said, my new Lemond Fillmore is considerably more comfortable due to skinnier tubing, longer chainstays and laxer geometry. The Pista was fun when splitting lanes of traffic on Burnside during rush hour or sprinting off the line but in the end comfort matters more to me and that's why I got a road fixed gear instead.
Sweet, thanks guys. I'm in the process of building up my track bike right now, which I think will be good for everyday riding, but I'm looking to get into doing longer rides and I'm thinking I'll want a solid road bike for that. I still want it to be fixed though.
There is no true 'track' geomety! If you look at geometry charts they're all over the place (road and track frames alike), geometries overlap and each type of frame
(road or track) can shoot the gamete from super lax to really twitchy. If you talk to custom frame builders and tell them you want 'true' track geometry you're going to get a different response from each one of them. It really depends on what YOU want the bike to ride like, not some silly ass bike mfg trying to sell you some shit based on 'legit' track race geometry.
track frames are generally quicker and have better acceleration, and have tighter clearances. generally.
If anyone wants to read about geometry (including BikeCAD illustrations), check out the article in Urban Velo by Don Walker, The Truth About Track Bike Geometry (http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue3/urbanvelo3_p44-45.html). Particularly this part, which was more what I was talking about with my particular frame: http://www.urbanvelo.org/issue3/urbanvelo3_p48-49.html.
Ridiculous. Show me a track bike with lax geometry. And a gamete is a cell stage in human physiology.
The Pista's geometry is essentially identical to the 55cm square "track neutral" geometry referenced in yonderboy's DW article.
super sick:There is no true 'track' geomety! If you look at geometry charts they're all over the place (road and track frames alike), geometries overlap and each type of frame
(road or track) can shoot the gamete from super lax to really twitchy. If you talk to custom frame builders and tell them you want 'true' track geometry you're going to get a different response from each one of them. It really depends on what YOU want the bike to ride like, not some silly ass bike mfg trying to sell you some shit based on 'legit' track race geometry.
Any 70's track bike. you can tell just by looking at them they ride like cadilaks.
Surly's also super lax geometry
i love my track bike and did not like my conversion
I am not sure that the discussion needs to get convoluted with exceptions which aren't relevant. It's pretty much a given that modern track frames are built around the platform of short stays and steeper angles. 70's bikes aren't relevant because that doesn't reflect current trends and I don't know anyone that races a Steamroller.
I agree with you that there is latitude in what kind of geometry a road bike can have but it's not as variable for track.
MIN:Ridiculous. Show me a track bike with lax geometry. I googled this information a couple minutes ago and a gamete is a cell stage in human physiology.
The Pista's geometry is essentially identical to the 55cm square "track neutral" geometry referenced in yonderboy's DW article.
super sick:There is no true 'track' geomety! If you look at geometry charts they're all over the place (road and track frames alike), geometries overlap and each type of frame
(road or track) can shoot the gamete from super lax to really twitchy. If you talk to custom frame builders and tell them you want 'true' track geometry you're going to get a different response from each one of them. It really depends on what YOU want the bike to ride like, not some silly ass bike mfg trying to sell you some shit based on 'legit' track race geometry.
thanks
Ok, that was a bit of a tangent. My only point is that people focus way too much on 'true' track geometry when there isn't really a standard or 'true' geometry. Track bikes like all bikes have different geometries. They are generally and I do mean very generally a little tighter than road bikes, but not much when you are comparing modern bikes. If you do compare a modern track bike to an older road bike; which most people are doing because older bikes lend themselves to conversions better, then obviouly there is a world of difference. But when I compare my new race bike and new track bike, the geometry isnt' that different; they are both super twitchy.
Very simply, track frames are cool, and conversions are wack.
Settled?
freebird:Very simply, track frames are cool, and conversions are wack.
Settled?
bar spinzzz
krystenr:I'd love to hear what people who ride long distances on track bikes have to say. Is it really impractical? STINE?
I've done 60 miles on my KHS track a couple times, and 40 miles a lot more than that. It's definitely do-able, not super comfortable, I get off and take breaks to eat/pee and it makes it a lot more manageable. I don't think I'd be able to do 60 miles sitting down the whole time without getting off...
Also depends a lot on other factors like a) if your bars are taped and what kind of tape b) bar to saddle drop c) if you're comfy in your saddle, if it's at the right angle, d) tire quality and PSI et cetera.
I don't think I'd want to take an aluminum track bike that kind of distance though.
But seriously, most of you in this forum are riding what, 5 to 20 miles a day? It's pretty easy to stay comfortable on nice Portland streets at that kind of mileage as long as your bike fit is right. If anything, get some gloves and chamois shorts (it's cool, people wear them under regular clothes all the time, swear).
I did the Sf to San Jose (55 miles) race on my aluminum Rossin last year, and it was absolutely the worst pain I've ever been in on a bicycle. Deep suck.
That said, If you're just gonna light-to-light it around town, you might as well have the steepest, prettiest trackie you can get your hands on. Shit's about 99.9% fashion anyway, right? Why not go all the way?
If you plan on actually clocking some mileage, set up something a little more reasonable. You know, brakes, and hoods, and bottle cages, and a pic-i-nic basket.
It's all about what you need out of your bike.
freebird:If you plan on actually clocking some mileage, set up something a little more reasonable. You know, brakes, and hoods, and bottle cages, and a pic-i-nic basket.
It's all about what you need out of your bike.
Yeah, I'm definitely looking to do 40+ mile rides 3 times a week or so. Right now I'm doing that on a mixte conversion (with a front brake) and with padded cycling shorts it's not too bad. But I'm in the process of building up my Kilo TT and I'm thinking I might have to keep the mixte around for the longer rides. I also really, really just want to build up a nice road bike. Yes, I'm talking gears!
I ride a 59 cm leader with deg 73 head tube, 37mm rake fork, 170mm cranks and size 12.5 feets in XL/L mks clips...no overlap there. so not all bikes do it.
plus you get used to it in a hurry. it becomes a back brain activity like climbing two stairs at a time in side a week. seriously, amy was pissed about it for the first couple days, now it's no problem.
but I like how track bikes handle, the shorter wheel base is fun to whip around on. I ride alot, but i don't do lots of miles at once, so I can't tell you long ides are fun on a track frame.
krystenr:freebird:If you plan on actually clocking some mileage, set up something a little more reasonable. You know, brakes, and hoods, and bottle cages, and a pic-i-nic basket.
It's all about what you need out of your bike.
Yeah, I'm definitely looking to do 40+ mile rides 3 times a week or so. Right now I'm doing that on a mixte conversion (with a front brake) and with padded cycling shorts it's not too bad. But I'm in the process of building up my Kilo TT and I'm thinking I might have to keep the mixte around for the longer rides. I also really, really just want to build up a nice road bike. Yes, I'm talking gears!
So yeah, I'm using the exact same frame as you for the exact same mileage. At 40 miles it's not bad riding it. At 60, you may start to wish for something else.
stumptown:So yeah, I'm using the exact same frame as you for the exact same mileage. At 40 miles it's not bad riding it. At 60, you may start to wish for something else.
On the TT? Okay, sweet. Good to know. Thanks!
well, the KHS track frame is the same exact thing as the kilo TT, it's just different paint and decals.
What it really boils down to, is this: The discomfort you feel on a track bike is a SMALL price to pay for all the poo-nanny and/or dudebutt you will undoubtedly pull as a result of being seen around town on the back of a sweet tarcktarck. What'll it be Max? Conversion and Rosie Plam or tarcktarck and happycock? c'mon
Hahhaaahaha.
Gilly:What it really boils down to, is this: The discomfort you feel on a track bike is a SMALL price to pay for all the poo-nanny and/or dudebutt you will undoubtedly pull as a result of being seen around town on the back of a sweet tarcktarck. What'll it be Max? Conversion and Rosie Plam or tarcktarck and happycock? c'mon
best.reason.ever.
Gilly:What it really boils down to, is this: The discomfort you feel on a track bike is a SMALL price to pay for all the poo-nanny and/or dudebutt you will undoubtedly pull as a result of being seen around town on the back of a sweet tarcktarck. What'll it be Max? Conversion and Rosie Plam or tarcktarck and happycock? c'mon
Word
You do realize that this would mean putting a "poon magnet" Max on a "poon magnet" bike will make a "super poon magnet."
I think I'll have to stay off the track frames for the safety of your mothers, sisters, daughters, and girlfriends. (and dudes who like bears.)
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