You might have to take it to a shop to use a longer chainwhip handle. It take a couple hundred pounds of force to get it off.

Can you stick something over the end of the chain-whip to get more leverage?

Thanks for the advice guys. Ill see if a bike shop can squeeze me in today or tomorrow.

I dont know what id attach to my whip for more leverage. I could duct tape a broom handle to it. Haha.

or rotofix it off.
http://204.73.203.34/fisso/eng/schpignone.htm

Just follow the instructions but in reverse.

seconding rotafixing, which is also a great way to put a cog on.

wow those guys are really saying to ride wihout lockrings? someone might make a joke about italians/stupidity with that one.

if you've seen the threads come off under the cog when a lockring comes loose...you know that rolling without a lockring is just dumb, why , when they are $10? what hub does not have room for a lockring...

what am i missing?

d3fold:

^^ You ride in today? I didn't see your bike parked outside.

the GT had a flat when i went to leave so i rode the cannondale. it's hanging in the shop with me :-)

yup, so's a chain whip with a 2.5' cheater bar. leverage.

deliciousfuture:

sure, but this doesn't require either of those. and i don't have a 1/8" chainwhip :-[

Make one! I just bought a 3/32" chainwhip from CCC, and about an 18" section of scrap 1/8" chain. Busted the old shit off, put on the new stuff. awesome!

zacp:

deliciousfuture:

sure, but this doesn't require either of those. and i don't have a 1/8" chainwhip :-[

Make one! I just bought a 3/32" chainwhip from CCC, and about an 18" section of scrap 1/8" chain. Busted the old shit off, put on the new stuff. awesome!

yup yup.

my 1/8 chain whip is a just a home made one. after buying the 3/32" one I was like I payed $15 for that? and got a chuck of cold rolled 2" wide 1/16" think flat barstock drilled some holes and pulled out the chain breaker and wha-la Cracker-Whacker brand 1/8" chain whip. Even dipped the end in that plasti-cote shit for tool they slang at harbor freight for $2 a can. looks hella pro. you could dip a turd in that stuff slap a logo on it and take over park tool.

I'm thinking my own line of tools:

TrackStarz (tm)

all the tools will be gold anodized or plated with pink and black stripey plastic handles

pedal wrench/weed pipe/corkscrew/dildo combo wrench $19.95+S&H

get 'em while they last

the idea of riding without a lockring comes from the theory that if properly installed, and not abused drastically, it would take a shit ton of torque to unthread a cog, and that having a lockring when a chain derails is precisely what often turns that situation into a right disaster, by preventing the cog from unthreading itself right off, and causing the wheel to seize and become, unless you're lucky, a very expensive mess.

i have not come to a decision on whether riding without a lockring is a good idea. for me, it would be, because i don't bust out distance skids often. i see little use, beyond fun or showing off, as they're rough on the tires, wheel, cog, hub, chain, and knees. haha.

weltall82:

the idea of riding without a lockring comes from the theory that if properly installed, and not abused drastically, it would take a shit ton of torque to unthread a cog, and that having a lockring when a chain derails is precisely what often turns that situation into a right disaster, by preventing the cog from unthreading itself right off, and causing the wheel to seize and become, unless you're lucky, a very expensive mess.

i have not come to a decision on whether riding without a lockring is a good idea. for me, it would be, because i don't bust out distance skids often. i see little use, beyond fun or showing off, as they're rough on the tires, wheel, cog, hub, chain, and knees. haha.

Hm. Let me make sure im understanding you…
You think it would be better to ride without a lock ring because you 'don't bust out a distance skid often"? I think a distance skid would put less pressure on a cog in a way that would cause it to unthread than a short (hard) skid or backpedaling hard. If you do a long skid you are displacing your weight so there is minimal traction and also lower force pulling the drivetrain. If you are in any sort of traffic I think you should ride with a lock ring or brakes. Either or. If youre on the track, go for it. I skid usually for fun (as I run a brake), but I think its easier on the knees than back pedaling with much force. Skidding is very hard on your tires though, no argument there. The other parts are all debatable.

deliciousfuture:

white folks:

d3fold:

A lot of special built track wheels don't have extra threads for a lockring.

please point me to an example, cuz this I gotta see.

i have one; it's a specialized tri-spoke. i've also seen track discs without lockring threading. they aren't really necessary on the track because they aren't skidding or putting serious backpressure on the cog.

Those are examples of road wheels that are designed for freewheels. Track specific tri-spokes and discs will have lockring threads. If they're spaced 120mm and have no lockring threads then the axles have been swapped from a road size (either 126 or 130), I know that hed sells converter kits on their website.

I didn't say the converted specialized tri-spoke had lockring threads. If it is 120 spaced, in other words converted from road to track, then the hub wouldn't have any lockring threads. I was not referring to specialized wheels when I said "track specific tri-spokes and discs". I was thinking more along the lines of the discs I posted, Mavic IOs and track versions of the Nimble Crosswind and Zipp 3000 or Eliminator.

I'm just saying that specilized and all other wheels with freewheel threads are not track specific wheels. I was just addressing the original comment, "A lot of special built track wheels don't have extra threads for a lockring." which I do not think is true. The specilized tri-spoke for example was never marketed as a track wheel, instead it was always converted using axle kits and spacers because, as you pointed out, all the wheels were the same with differnt axles front and rear.

Any wheel made only for the track will have a lockring. That's the point I'm trying to make.

I don't think wheels w/o lockrings are legal in mass start events (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Though people do use them in individual events.

Graham Obree used them for his hour record:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml6KT5MArC8&feature=related