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Hopefully we can keep bike questions in here or so. Don't know if we already have a thread like this but OH WELL.
Lately I've been thinking about a new wheelset since my rear formula is crapped out and it ain't matchy matchy with mah front crap Suzue laced to arayas.
So wheelsets. I have my eye set on them Mavic Ellipses, I totally dig them. I've heard of the chainline problem but that wont be a problem on the GTB since the chainline is already pretty fuckored. But am I better off with another wheelset or a custom build?
custom build. worth it. get a good builder and you're set.
those ellipses are fucking sweet. look at the hurt jonah puts on them.
whats your price point? ellipses at retail?
I hate retail. :[
If I get a 135mm width Paul Word rear hub and run my rival compact crank on there, I would guess I would put my chainring on the outside. Paul calls the 135mm spacing 'mountain bike spacing' which scares me a little. Would my chainline be aight? My alternative it the 130mm wide high flange, but I dont need high flange for mud, I would rather save the weight (and money), but if I do the high flange I can put two gears on it…
Chainline stuff confuses me.
to avoid buying a new wheelset, or hub that is fixed fixed, is it easy to change out my cog from track to commute by myself? with the knowhow, how hard is it without knowhow. would buying tools and doing it myself be worth it or should I just have my local shop of dbags do it for me? for 5 to 10 bucks everytime I want to climb a fucking hill quickly/???/??
DeadHead:to avoid buying a new wheelset, or hub that is fixed fixed, is it easy to change out my cog from track to commute by myself? with the knowhow, how hard is it without knowhow. would buying tools and doing it myself be worth it or should I just have my local shop of dbags do it for me? for 5 to 10 bucks everytime I want to climb a fucking hill quickly/???/??
too much cog-changing probably isn't a good thing, but you should own a chainwhip and lockring, then maybe a breaker bar/hozan for the extra torque.
also: from recently asking the same question... a flip-flop hub will probably work as well as fix/fix if the cog on the freewheel side is track-only. probably. so i've been told, and that's what i plan to do myself.
i have a freewheel on a fixed cog. WI on Phil. it works fine.
surly dingle cog or WI uno dos
You can get away with a cog screwed onto the freewheel side of a flip-flop hub at Alpenrose, that's how some of the rental bikes are set up. My "track gearing" is like that, a 15t cog with a bottom bracket lockring screwed down on top of it to make it look fixed/fixed.
Imo its worth owning a lockring wrench and chain whip.
Just in case it ever comes undone and youre near home but not a bike shop, or if they are closed and you are doing prep for a race the next day. Also try googling 'rotofix', you can get a cog off without a chain whip and you can get more leverage by using the wheel itself. But figuring out which way to wrap the chain and turn the wheel is a little tricky at first.
rotafix is the way of the champion
baravettski showed me the rotafix. we spent a good 5 minutes debating which way was 'unscrew'.
grimm:If I get a 135mm width Paul Word rear hub and run my rival compact crank on there, I would guess I would put my chainring on the outside. Paul calls the 135mm spacing 'mountain bike spacing' which scares me a little. Would my chainline be aight? My alternative it the 130mm wide high flange, but I dont need high flange for mud, I would rather save the weight (and money), but if I do the high flange I can put two gears on it…
It depends on a lot of things. A lot of mountain bike BB shells are 73mm, which will put your chainline out another 5mm from a standard road crank. I've found that you can't always count on Sheldon Brown to be correct. When in doubt, get a ruler and measure and make adjustments as needed. You'll have some more leeway if you're using a 3/32 chain. A couple mm either way won't make too big of a difference. You could always spin the wheel then grab the bike, hold it parallel to the ground, and shake it to see if you'll throw the chain or not.
I've got a frankenbike I'm working on for cross season. I'm using a standard road double on an older MTB frame that has a 68mm shell and 130mm spacing. I might want 700c tires for sloppy mud, but the 26" frame might be easier to carry. I'll have to try it and see. If all else fails, I can just put my trials bars on there and rear wheel hop the barriers.
PS: Rotofix is good if you hate your BB shell.
Thanks.
Im thinking the high flange may be best for me. Largely due to the fact that it is flip/flop unlike the word hub. Options are good. And the 130mm hub with road cranks makes sense.
grimm:Thanks.
Im thinking the high flange may be best for me. Largely due to the fact that it is flip/flop unlike the word hub. Options are good. And the 130mm hub with road cranks makes sense.
I think 130mm is just the axle spacing. The measurement you need to pay attention to is chainline.
why is there so much resistance to using the proper tools, the right parts and shit like that?
i must be old.
+1 get the right part for the correct use.
don't "make it work" cuz you DGAF
white folks:why is there so much resistance to using the proper tools, the right parts and shit like that?
i must be old.
Sometimes money is an object , but I made my own chainwhip and plan to make a better one than you can buy. I also very carefully ground my own lockring pliers out of an old pair of Channel-locks.
As far as using the right parts goes sometimes money is also the object, or your fixed/free hub is still in really good shape so it seems stupid in my case to waste money on a double-fixed and then have mismatched hubs. I don't think my Suzue ProMax sb's will be dying anytime soon. The right parts? I guess for a conversion, the right parts would be the freewheel cluster, derailleurs, and shifters.
I'm just against rotafixing. my idea of hell on earth is where Italian fixie bros work on my bike.
I think it's stupid too. You can put your chainwhip in a vise and use the leverage of the wheel.
is that a chainwhip in your pocket or you glad to see me?
A telescoping chainwhip, that's an idea dunno if it's DIY-able.
Are DA 7600 Cranks compatible with at Sugino 75 BB?
Here is an answer.
Be aware that differences in the tapers, overhangs and other variables of bottom bracket spindles may well affect chainline if you are mixing a crank from one manufacturer with the bottom bracket of another (even if the spindles are the same overall length). Not all fixed cups are alike either. If you must mix models and manufacturers' cranks and b/b's, you will frequently be best served by at least keeping both from within the same country of origin (i.e., Dura-Ace crank with Sugino 75 b/b; Super Record crank with Gipiemme b/b). By doing so, at least the taper shapes are more likely to be compatible. The results however, particularly with used cranks, are not consistently predictable. To hammer home the obvious though, it is almost always preferable to pair the crank with the exact bottom bracket model for which it was designed.
the rest of the page is here
marshall, the answer is buy some Omniums.
Marshall - NJS stuff is made to be interchangeable. It's all ISO taper, so it should work out.
thanks
and doug I found 7600s for 125
Oh heres another bike question Ive had for a while, correct me if Im wrong, but I was under the impression that the idea behind NJS stamping was so that there were a range of parts but they were all equal, giving no racer an advantage due to the quality of his components/bike. If that's the case why are Sugino 75s < Dura Ace < Campy Record Pistas? And why are Sugino 75s and Sugino Grand Mightys (same with sugino 75 bb vs. superlap) both NJS stamped when one is clearly manufactured to be a superior product and thus costs more?
I believe they are designed to be interchangeable, not equal.
While I may start a flame saying this, as there's no wikipedia entry on it for kids to verify, NJS certification now is more about keeping the Keirin parts manufacturers employed and profitable. You open it to CF, the whole Japanese track industry will get flooded by Chinese CF, and the lugged makers will probably be forced out of business.
Think about why an institution might force the $$$ back into the same country and local manufacturing market.
that makes sense
still, sell them Dura Aches and your 75 bb and get omniums. make jonah give to you EP status. you'll be way cooler.
my thinking goes like such:
old steel and some alum bikes > 75's , DA's and where applicable record pista.
new bikes > omniums.
^^man knows his shit
what things are or are not compatible between sram and shimano?
Overall, things are somewhat compatible. The track cranks are not though due to the onmiums using an exterior bb
hmm thanks. i was thinking road anyway.
They used the same cassett, but thats about it. The shifting distance is different with sram.
You can use SRAM chains, cassettes, and chainrings with Shimano derailleurs. SRAM shifters need to be paired with SRAM derailleurs.
Unless you use a Shiftmate, then you can mix shifters/derailleurs however you want. A lot of people do it, but results are mixed.
marshall:thanks
and doug I found 7600s for 125
I got 7710's for $130.00/w a Sugino Grand mighty chainring. Best day of my life when it came to building my bike. along with Tri-Met buying me a rear Phil Wood build.
white folks:still, sell them Dura Aches and your 75 bb and get omniums. make jonah give to you EP status. you'll be way cooler.
my thinking goes like such:
old steel and some alum bikes > 75's , DA's and where applicable record pista.
new bikes > omniums.
DA 7710's=the best,but what do i know.
scarface#1:marshall:thanks
and doug I found 7600s for 125
Tri-Met buying me a rear Phil Wood build.
haha why'd they do that?
and yeah the 7600s are with the matching bb for 125, really fuckin good deal, but the guy hasn't emailed me back yet
scarface#1:white folks:still, sell them Dura Aches and your 75 bb and get omniums. make jonah give to you EP status. you'll be way cooler.
my thinking goes like such:
old steel and some alum bikes > 75's , DA's and where applicable record pista.
new bikes > omniums.
DA 7710's=the best,but what do i know.
Do we really have to have this debate again?
i don't like the feel of the brake levers on my oneway. do i need canti-specific ones to replace them, or would something like this work?
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=15986&category=1597
er....
velo-orange says them work with cantis.
http://www.velo-orange.com/tebrler2r1.html
so. am i all set and good?
Youll be fine with the tektros. I have used them and the cane creeks, and they are the exact same design and worked with my cantis and my road calipers.
I've been thinking. I want to get a bmx bike but I'm leaning towards a mountain bike. Watched a video and BAM! Guy using like a hardtail downhill or dirt jump frame like if it were a 26" bmx bike. Good idea y/n. Who wants to help? I mean, fuck, bmx tricks and hitting the single track.
i would pay to see a kevin phomma tailwhip
K_phomma:Yes pls, where shall I start?
I think that frame is a Tonic Fall Guy. Nice frame, but there are cheaper options. Bikedaily has some rigid Black Market Mob frames built up on his photostream. You can find Azonics all over the place. They're probably the best and cheapest option available.
Kona Shonky, Specialized P.1, Giant STP, and Black Market Riot are all off-the-shelf singlespeeds. If it was me, I'd just get a complete bike and replace the parts as I broke them.
K_phomma:I've been thinking. I want to get a bmx bike but I'm leaning towards a mountain bike. Watched a video and BAM! Guy using like a hardtail downhill or dirt jump frame like if it were a 26" bmx bike. Good idea y/n. Who wants to help? I mean, fuck, bmx tricks and hitting the single track.
kevin if youre wanting to ride at skateparks or anything, generally people dont like mountain bikes being there, and youre learning progression is going to be a lot slower if youre riding on a 26" compared to learning on a bmx, simply because its a bigger and more difficult bike to maneuver. that being said, if you get good at handling a DJ bike, youll be a lot better once you get on a bmx.
ps those blackmarkets are really dope
pps do whatever you want