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clip on seatpost rear
none
full fenders. with extended mudflap on the front
planet bike.. the $30 ones,.. woulda go tthe cascadias had i had some $ to spare. with added rear courtesy flap in the back on both. need front flaps still, helps keep feet dry.
full fenders: definitely worth it..
miguelaron:Race blades
thats team old man approved!
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race blade rear on the track bike. wouldnt fit on the front...
I've got some questions about tubing. I currently ride a Pake frame...nuff said.
I was looking at getting an Alien bikes frame, but the only advantage would be that it's lugged. I don't need some ultra-light frame, but i've heard cromo 4130 sucks. It's never done me wrong. Can anyone inform me about the difference between Reynolds 631(IRO's Angus frame) vs Reynolds 520(kilo tt)? I realize that they are a different composition of alloy, and different manufacturing processes; i'm just wondering if there's a serious strength/weight difference between the two. Thanks,
**edit, I also use this bike to get around. I'm not at the track doing anything legit.
http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-409173.html found that too. if anyone has personal insight, im interested!
buy a kilo. for riding on the street they are great. also you cant beat $200
jeezy, whatchu know about seat tube and head tube angles?
im pretty sure 631 is composition wise very similar to 4130 Crmo which is what 520 (kilo tt tubing) is. 4130 crmo is a great material and i don't think there will be a huge weight/strength gap between it and any other cromoly steel. 631 is probably a little stronger which allows it to be butted a little thinner and save a little more weight. but in my opinion it's not worth paying more for the slight difference in weight, if you want a light bike go aluminum. 520 is butted anyway, which already makes it 500x better than the pake.
4130 Cromo doesn't suck. It is way more than good+light enough (if butted) for most "dont-care-about-weight" applications. i don't think you will find a very big difference in weight between it and any other cromoly steel tubeset. i don't think you'll tell the difference between it and 631. if you want steel and want light, better start shelling out the big buxx for the best frame material ever, stainless steel.

makeemsayhuh?:jeezy, whatchu know about seat tube and head tube angles?
a little. why?
also dont get anything thats lugged cro-moly. bad idea.
I love my IRO, Reynolds 631 feels as stiff as my lugged steel road frame and the geometry is "track" yet comfortable. I'm sure the Kilo's are rad for a entry level track frame as well. Two hundo for a frame is pretty goddamn cheap.
raceblades. on all bikes.
modified to fit the gtb better.
yung jeezy pdx:makeemsayhuh?:jeezy, whatchu know about seat tube and head tube angles?
a little. why?
also dont get anything thats lugged cro-moly. bad idea.
yeah, then what's the next best option?
yung jeezy pdx:makeemsayhuh?:jeezy, whatchu know about seat tube and head tube angles?
a little. why?
also dont get anything thats lugged cro-moly. bad idea.
Huh?
makeemsayhuh?:yung jeezy pdx:makeemsayhuh?:jeezy, whatchu know about seat tube and head tube angles?
a little. why?
also dont get anything thats lugged cro-moly. bad idea.yeah, then what's the next best option?
kilo.
Why not be a badass and buy the fantom uno.
yeah, no motobecan for me.
get a fuggin kilo and call it done. upgrade as follows:
1wheels cog seat
2chain crank bb
3stem bars
4seatpost
5pedals
6fork
by the time you have made it this far you will know which frame to buy
1. buy kilo tt frameset
2. buy Miche group
miche aint omniumz
omniums are cool. miche is cool
except Im mad at them for doing colors now
Sram or Miche?
miche
yeah by doing colors i meant sram Red
somad
miguelaron:get a fuggin kilo and call it done. upgrade as follows:
1wheels cog seat pedals
2stem bars
3chain crank bb
4seatpost
5fork
by the time you have made it this far you will know which frame to buy
fixed it, i don't know why good pedals would be a second-to-last thing to buy, and i would upgrade the cockpit before upgrading the drivetrain.. i guess what im saying is to get the fit-type parts down before upgrading for performance.
but its a good plan. in fact it's my plan.
yeah I'd say if it fit you really poorly to upgrade the cockpit first, just because getting stem and bars and saddle if you didnt like the saddle, is cheaper than wheels and drivetrain. but yeah I mean basically youre gonna wanna replace everything on the kilo in time if you want it to be a good bike, so its hard to know what to do first, especially on a limited budget. I honestly like waiting longer, and buying everything for a build exactly how I want it to be in the long run, and building it complete without having to change stuff down the line. Thats what I did with my road bike and the current street track bike Im building. That being said it takes a lot of patience and only works if you have another bike to ride while youre waiting to build the new one.
If it fit you really poorly, you bought the wrong size
im an idiot and dont know how to set up my trainer. I'll post a picture of it and hopefully someone can tell me what to do. It's used so I dont have instructions and i've never used one before so i have no idea what i'm doing.
To some extent yes. But the all cockpits are done up from the manufacture with very general sizes.
I pretty much always need a long post, higher stem, wider bars.
what size is the hardware for fender mounts?
cuz i was thinking it would be cool if i made a little light to go in my un-used front fender mount. so i would make a little pcb and solder some shit, then waterproof it and put a bolt into a pcb standoff to hold it on.
but i need to know the hardware size to design the stuff
not sure the threading but i'm pretty sure they're 5mm bolts
tepr:If it fit you really poorly, you bought the wrong size
they come stock with a 120 stem. that doesnt work for me even if the frame is the right size
miguelaron:get a fuggin kilo and call it done. upgrade as follows:
1wheels cog seat
2chain crank bb
3stem bars
4seatpost
5pedals
6fork
by the time you have made it this far you will know which frame to buy
that's what my plan is looking like. I have pretty solid components to xfer over from my old frame to the new one.
Anyways, what's the widest tire you can fit on a kilo tt?
28c iirc
tepr:If it fit you really poorly, you bought the wrong size
Not really true. My ex got the smallest size Motobecane Messenger like 3 or 4 years ago and the stock bars and stem on it were HUGE compaired to how small the frame was.
Edit: I know you guys were talking about the Kilo specifically, I'm just assuming you meant from Bikes Direct which in my mind all of those bikes are the same and come with the same shit.
cantstopwontstop:tepr:If it fit you really poorly, you bought the wrong size
Not really true. My ex got the smallest size Motobecane Messenger like 3 or 4 years ago and the stock bars and stem on it were HUGE compaired to how small the frame was.
Edit: I know you guys were talking about the Kilo specifically, I'm just assuming you meant from Bikes Direct which in my mind all of those bikes are the same and come with the same shit.
i feel like it's varying degrees of shit..it's all mostly brown and smells bad but it'd different consistencies..i think the kilo is a nicer setup than the motobecane msngr
Yeah I think you're right. That's why I threw in the edit after I wrote that. I figured I was a little off as far as what each came stock with.
All I know is for as small a frame as she got, the damn bars and stem where made for like a full grown man with super long arms. It was ridiculous watching her try to ride it before we switched the parts out haha.
cantstopwontstop:Yeah I think you're right. That's why I threw in the edit after I wrote that. I figured I was a little off as far as what each came stock with.
All I know is for as small a frame as she got, the damn bars and stem where made for like a full grown man with super long arms. It was ridiculous watching her try to ride it before we switched the parts out haha.
yeah, i'm a giant so I hope the 60cm comes with some shit that's long enough, tho I prefer narrow bars. I guess i'll have to wait and see!
ok. what is a good, <$50, 1" threadless headset. not looking to buy a chris king. is there a headset option where it's still good but cheaper? (this is called the miche effect btw)
i am thinking:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=16331&category=104
anything to know?
great headset. buy it.
I would have sold you that headset for 20 had you posted before. But now i ebaying my fork and headset together. Sry. Its worked great though.
kris ching
Tho several months early, how anal are the people at Tabor Series about brakes?
if you have hoods and can handle your bike i think your good.