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Bike Related: ITT: General Bike Questions.

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  1.  

    FULL FENDERS

    •  
      CommentAuthorK_phomma
    • CommentTimeOct 27th 2009
     
    yung jeezy pdx:

    FULL FENDERS

    •  
      CommentAuthorhardoush
    • CommentTimeOct 28th 2009
     

    ive got one of these if you are interested k_phomma

    http://www.konabikes.co.uk/2k5images/2K5_Scrap_Side.jpg

    it needs a couple things to be rideable probably like 80-100 bucks. Ive ridden bmx and hit the same stuff with this bike and for trails and dirt this thing is tits.

    • CommentAuthorwookie
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     

    I've got a bad habit of hitting potholes when riding at night (even with a bright headlight), and I'm wondering if high-flange hubs with high-profile rims are more resistant to going out of true than "regular"-profile rims. If yes, is there a limit to the resistance (ie, deep-v's are more resistant than "regular", H+/B43 are no more resistant than deep-v's)? Are cheap rims as resistant as pricier rims? Does 32h vs. 36h matter? Should I just get a brighter light and pay more attention? Out of cheap/strong/light, I'm picking cheap and strong.

    • CommentAuthormiguelaron
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     

    get mavic touring rims (719), 36h hubs, beefy spokes. yes, they're heavy.

    i weigh +/- 180 lbs, i run over stuff (not potholes, really) and i don't have to true very often.

    • CommentAuthormiguelaron
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     

    also, maybe get bigger tires (28mm+)

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     

    Really? I had some shitty alex to formula wheels that I hated, beat the hell out of of and could not make come untrue. And ive only trued my Cane Creeks (20/24 spoke) once, ever. All off them not deep, I guess they have a big flange but im not thinking thats why they stay true. Mostly I pay attention and dont hit stuff.

    • CommentAuthorwookie
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     

    miguel: Thanks. I've got 28mm tires, but I'm not sure if there's clearance for 30mm's with my fenders. 32mm+ is doesn't really look possible.

    grimm: I have probably the same Alex/Formula wheels. They seem to stay true, using the brake caliper test. They also seem less susceptible to dings as the rims on the 70's-era 10-speeds I was riding 10-odd years ago. It was more of a "I-wanna-build-a-wheel" than a "I-have-a-pressing-need-for-a-wheel" question.

  9.  

    get a solid hand built wheelset. hve them use spoke prep. formulas to op's or something

  10.  

    also keep your tires inflated

    •  
      CommentAuthorluno
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     

    here is a question

    i am 5' 9" and inseam is about 30".

    what size kilo-tt should i get? i have heard a lot of differing opinions on this.

  12.  

    55.
    measures a little longer top tube wise but it should suit you pretty well.

    •  
      CommentAuthorkevint143
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     

    Favorite wheelset ever is velocity aero to Godspeed hubs 36h 3x front 4xrear. I rode them everyday for 2 years and olny had to true them about 4 times. I would bunny hop curbs drop off things and never had a problem with them.

    • CommentAuthorTrevy
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     
    wookie:

    I've got a bad habit of hitting potholes when riding at night (even with a bright headlight), and I'm wondering if high-flange hubs with high-profile rims are more resistant to going out of true than "regular"-profile rims. If yes, is there a limit to the resistance (ie, deep-v's are more resistant than "regular", H+/B43 are no more resistant than deep-v's)? Are cheap rims as resistant as pricier rims? Does 32h vs. 36h matter? Should I just get a brighter light and pay more attention? Out of cheap/strong/light, I'm picking cheap and strong.

    it's all how you build them. b43/hplus whatever are huge and unnecessarily heavy

    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009 edited
     
    wookie:

    I've got a bad habit of hitting potholes when riding at night (even with a bright headlight), and I'm wondering if high-flange hubs with high-profile rims are more resistant to going out of true than "regular"-profile rims. If yes, is there a limit to the resistance (ie, deep-v's are more resistant than "regular", H+/B43 are no more resistant than deep-v's)? Are cheap rims as resistant as pricier rims? Does 32h vs. 36h matter? Should I just get a brighter light and pay more attention? Out of cheap/strong/light, I'm picking cheap and strong.

    Some thoughts: keep in mind this is purely anecdotal.

    The high-flange vs. low-flange has been debated, some think that high flange hubs build stiffer wheels, and I tend to agree, just based on my experience with both.

    As far Deep-V section rims go, they are stronger not so much because of their shape as there is more material. In the case of the B-43 is is technically a triple wall rim. They resist lateral loads better, and I think this helps them stay in true. I think the thick section helps them resist getting flat spots too.

    Although one could say that a less stiff and therefore more flexible rim would absorb some of the road shocks like potholes, which might knock it out of true but not physically damage the rim.

    As far as cheap vs. expensive, the only cheap rim that is also strong is the Sun M13II , with the Weinmann's deep-Vs something tells me you get what you pay for.

    36 vs. 32 spoke? Unless you weigh over about 175 lbs. I don't think 36 spoke is necessary, unless you are doing tricks or playing bike polo.

    And yes a well-built wheel will hold up better. 3X is usually fine, but I like 4x in the back. I have been attempting to murder my back wheel for 2 years and I've re-tensioned it once, and trued it maybe twice, because it had one little kick in it, which was a loose spoke. On my front wheel I went 2x and it is plenty strong, I've only re-tensioned it. They are both Velocity Deep-Vs.

    People are slagging off Deep-Vs because they are no longer popular with the coolest of the cool, they have went in the opposite direction with traditional black or silver low section rims, and the trendy have went one step beyond with super deep v rims like the b43 and H+son in muted but still kooky colors like light green and bronze. This shit is just fashion so get something you can stomach looking at for a few years.

    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeNov 30th 2009
     

    Oh I forgot, slightly fatter tires and proper tire pressure are going to really increase the life of your rims.

  17.  

    what are these pedals?

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeDec 4th 2009
     

    I dont know who makes them, but they are on all the stupid light bikes. Supposed to be the lightest pedals available. Which seems silly on a TT bike, but whatevs.

    •  
      CommentAuthoraokp
    • CommentTimeDec 4th 2009
     
    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeDec 4th 2009
     

    How come one bike with a 59cm TT fits me well, but another with a 59cm TT fit so differently? The stem and amount of seatpost setback are in the same ball park, so is the saddle to bar drop. Its weird. I would think it would be so close but my arms feel sooo out stretched.

  21.  

    geometry, i would guess, for (extreme) instance cx geo to pursuit geo.

    compared to

    maybe pressures on your arms are less on one than the other?

  22.  

    sorry about the big pics

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeDec 4th 2009
     

    Yeah, I mean I get that… but a CX race bike to a road bike isnt THAT dramatic. Both have slightly sloping TTs, but they are both measure horizontally.

    TT on both 59, ST 60. SA on Cdale 72.5 on Kona 74. HA on Cdale 73.5 and on Kona 74. Head tube on Cdale 20.4 on Kona 18. Wheelbase 100.1 on Cdale and 1004 on Kona. I mean, its all pretty close. Im going to take the bike home swap the stem ad adjust the bar angle up to see if I can get it to work through the cockpit. Its a good enough deal that I am gonna ride it around for the weekend (I talked him into letting me).

  24.  

    I just put a miche pista advanced crankset and matching bottom bracket on my bike. the only problem is, the chain makes a grinding sound against the chainring. i know i put the bb in right (it went on like butter), and i've adjusted the chain line in both directions and it didn't have any affect. any ideas?

  25.  

    oh and also throughly cleaned and relubed the chain.

  26.  

    is the rear wheel straight? put it on the stand and find out which side of the chainring the chain is pushing against, adjust bottom bracket. is this a track bike or a conversion? is the frame straight?

    •  
      CommentAuthortepr
    • CommentTimeDec 4th 2009
     
    grimm:

    Yeah, I mean I get that… but a CX race bike to a road bike isnt THAT dramatic. Both have slightly sloping TTs, but they are both measure horizontally.

    TT on both 59, ST 60. SA on Cdale 72.5 on Kona 74. HA on Cdale 73.5 and on Kona 74. Head tube on Cdale 20.4 on Kona 18. Wheelbase 100.1 on Cdale and 1004 on Kona. I mean, its all pretty close. Im going to take the bike home swap the stem ad adjust the bar angle up to see if I can get it to work through the cockpit. Its a good enough deal that I am gonna ride it around for the weekend (I talked him into letting me).

    stem lengths and angles would help. also, bar drop/width/reach.

  28.  
    miguelaron:

    is the rear wheel straight? put it on the stand and find out which side of the chainring the chain is pushing against, adjust bottom bracket. is this a track bike or a conversion? is the frame straight?

    okay i fixed it afterall. it was indeed a combination of the things you said. i was just hungry and my back hurt and i was getting frustrated and antsy. i just had to fine tune it more because i'm not used to such a fancy bb.

    oh and for the record I have a Pake frame, so sort of track.

  29.  

    Glad to hear it. Get out there and ride that shit

  30.  
    brendanbarryconroy:

    oh and for the record I have a Pake frame, so sort of track.

    you are ok in my book.

    •  
      CommentAuthorK_phomma
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2009
     
    •  
      CommentAuthormarshall
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2009
     

    ^^^ FUCK that tommasini for having risers..so dope with cinelli LA84s or sumthin

  33.  
    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2009 edited
     
    tepr:
    grimm:

    Yeah, I mean I get that… but a CX race bike to a road bike isnt THAT dramatic. Both have slightly sloping TTs, but they are both measure horizontally.

    TT on both 59, ST 60. SA on Cdale 72.5 on Kona 74. HA on Cdale 73.5 and on Kona 74. Head tube on Cdale 20.4 on Kona 18. Wheelbase 100.1 on Cdale and 1004 on Kona. I mean, its all pretty close. Im going to take the bike home swap the stem ad adjust the bar angle up to see if I can get it to work through the cockpit. Its a good enough deal that I am gonna ride it around for the weekend (I talked him into letting me).

    stem lengths and angles would help. also, bar drop/width/reach.

    When first tried the stems were roughly the same size (within a cm of 8), but my kona has a 17 degree rise. So I put that stem on and angled the bars a bit differently on the CDale to little avail.
    I got out the tape measure and measured the TT from the middle of the ST to the middle of the HT. The Kona came was 58 and the Cdale 60. Weird, I know both the TTs prolly are not 100% level, but that is the major diff. 2-3cm back and the Cdale would fit way better.

    •  
      CommentAuthorK_phomma
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2009
     
    yung jeezy pdx:
    K_phomma:

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1330&category=856

    vs

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=13609&category=856

    what is the intended purpose of the wheels your building up?

    bombproof. fighting the power

    •  
      CommentAuthorbicyCOLE
    • CommentTimeDec 6th 2009
     
    K_phomma:
    yung jeezy pdx:
    K_phomma:

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1330&category=856

    vs

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=13609&category=856

    what is the intended purpose of the wheels your building up?

    bombproof. fighting the power

    for what bike? the salsa rims are way more low profile, but I'm digging mavic as of late, so I'd be more prone to say that. I've had very little experience with salsa stuff. 'cept riding the chili con crosse.

    •  
      CommentAuthorslkierley
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009
     

    Hey guys and gals,

    I was curious as to what a lot of you are riding out there as far as gear ratios. I am currently riding a 52/19, but I feel that this is a bit much. My legs are tired at the end of the day. What are most people riding? I know that a lot of it depends where you live, (ie: hills, etc)

    Let me know what your thoughts are on this please and thank you.

    Sheldon

    •  
      CommentAuthorgrimm
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009 edited
     

    As a rule of thumb I would say about 70-75" is a good place to start for riding around town. You are currently running about 85". Anything above 80 is too big except for at the track or specific training imo.

    Right now I have a 46x17 and I like it quite a bit (71"). If I happened to have an 18t I would probably throw it on for the winter. Remember kids, spinning it winning.

    Calculate your gears here: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

  39.  

    44/16 now, 48/16-17 in the summer

  40.  

    49/18
    46/17

    •  
      CommentAuthormarshall
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009
     

    49/16

    •  
      CommentAuthorluno
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009
     

    i go up and down mt. tabor every day on 42/15. but i guess if you live in a flat area....

    • CommentAuthorSkidMark
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009 edited
     
    grimm:
    tepr:
    grimm:

    Yeah, I mean I get that… but a CX race bike to a road bike isnt THAT dramatic. Both have slightly sloping TTs, but they are both measure horizontally.

    TT on both 59, ST 60. SA on Cdale 72.5 on Kona 74. HA on Cdale 73.5 and on Kona 74. Head tube on Cdale 20.4 on Kona 18. Wheelbase 100.1 on Cdale and 1004 on Kona. I mean, its all pretty close. Im going to take the bike home swap the stem ad adjust the bar angle up to see if I can get it to work through the cockpit. Its a good enough deal that I am gonna ride it around for the weekend (I talked him into letting me).

    stem lengths and angles would help. also, bar drop/width/reach.

    When first tried the stems were roughly the same size (within a cm of 8), but my kona has a 17 degree rise. So I put that stem on and angled the bars a bit differently on the CDale to little avail.
    I got out the tape measure and measured the TT from the middle of the ST to the middle of the HT. The Kona came was 58 and the Cdale 60. Weird, I know both the TTs prolly are not 100% level, but that is the major diff. 2-3cm back and the Cdale would fit way better.

    So Kona ST= 58cm 74deg

    Cannonball ST = 60cm 72.5deg

    2.5 degrees would account for a top tube length being different, especially if the chainstay length and wheelbase were similar. Basically, the slack seat angle is what is making that extra length of top tube. Seat tube length is going to influence these other dimensions too, as will head tube length. Bike frames are very Buddhist: it's all connected.

    I'm not sure if you want the Cannondale to be longer or shorter but either way the fore/aft seat location is the first place you need to make an adjustment: the whole "knee lined up over the pedal axle" deal. From there you can figure out the length of the cockpit, the old standard there is elbow against the nose of the saddle with your fingertips just on the flat of the bars.

    •  
      CommentAuthorslkierley
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009
     

    Thanks guys, I appreciate all of your input.

    •  
      CommentAuthorluno
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009
     

    i have stickers on my bike. there is rain and snow. will my stickers be OK or will they peel and fall off leaving paper and adhesive? what should i do to preserve them? clearcoat?

    •  
      CommentAuthorK_phomma
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009
     

    probably shouldnt wurry bro

    •  
      CommentAuthormarshall
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009
     

    its like bumper stickers on cars. pretty much weatherproof

    •  
      CommentAuthorluno
    • CommentTimeDec 8th 2009
     

    OK just checkin.. i have never stickered a bike before so

  49.  

    if they are vinyl, fine.
    if they are paper, not fine. it will turn into a nasty sticky mess.
    your fault for putting stickers on a bike.

  50.  

    stickers make bike faster, proven by sponsored riders.

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