As I mentioned in the Intro thread my Trek 1220 just got stolen on Sunday, which I'm pretty bummed about. Anyways I thought this would be a good opportunity to try out a Fixed or SS. I guess I just don't know where to start. What do I need to convert a regular road bike? What is the estimated about for a conversion? I am looking all over CL and eBay hoping to find something as inexpensive as possible. Is there a better material for a frame - steel or aluminum? Sorry if these are extremely basic questions, I just have no knowledge what-so-ever about it. Any help would be great.

steel is real

aluminum is uh...real too I 'spose.

I like aluminum fer stiffness, but some espouse ride quality of steel.

One thing to consider is that a steel road bike with horizontal rear axle drop outs is gonna be much easier to find than an aluminum frame with said drops.

Look for a frame you would like geared, with horizontal drops for proper chain tension within your budget.

Consider that most of your ride is coming from your frame geometry rather than material.

Get a proper size frame for your body, and from there buy nice wheels.

frame 1st then wheels.

A nice handbuilt wheelset will make a turd shine so to speak.

wow, i'm really well spoken.

is that your "true inseam" or your pants inseam?

I don't know about you guys, but my pants are so tight they are the same number. BAM!

Longwood: I would just try out the bikes. All the geometries are so different. I ride a 62cm conversion bike, but, for instance, the Spicer 60cm is WAY too tall for me. And remember that if you need to, its better to go shorter than taller.

So I may be getting a frame for fairly cheap, I'm not positive on that just yet, but provided that I get the frame how much is everything going to cost me? Chain rings, chain, wheels, handlebars, etc.? If possible I would like to keep the costs down as much as possible. Can I do it for $150 do you think?

also know that if yer choosing between 2 older (80's) bikes the geometry is gonna be virtually the same, stand over height is the only concern. (copped directly from Sheldon Brown...And some personal experience) Max speaks the truth, it's way easier to make a bike taller than shorter. Plus if you you have a stubby little stem and the seatpost jammed all the way down you're going to look a little goofy, and if fixed gear riding teaches us one thing, it's to always look fashionable, comfort and practicality be damned.

Hahaha, Max, that last comment made my night.

Well who would you be if you did talk about your bleeding taint? Or just have a bleeding taint to begin with? God, that is fucking hysterical.

No, you just have to move your legs reaaaaal fast. It's good fun.

huss:

Sometimes it is like a bad acid-trip, and you just want it to stop....hahaha

Hahahhaa. For some reason this reminds of the way the girl in that movie Shortbus describes having sex.

"Sex is really awesome. I love sex!…Sex feels terrific. I love it, a lot. It's a great workout, it feels good. I love loving my husband. It's just, there comes a point sometimes where it just gets really a lot of pressure and it feels a little bit, AHHHH, a little bit like somebody's gonna kill me and I just have to, you know, smile and pretend to enjoy it. You know, that way I can survive."

Max is NOW!:

I was going to disagree, but then i realized my taint was bleeding from my fashionably hard saddle.

max what do you ride?

jvandub:

longwood...

I know, right?!

longwood:

I'm glad you guys like the name. So I was just given some Surly front and rear fixed hubs (32 hole) now what?...

build up some wheels!

Longwood, have a pro do it fa real.

serious. its a good thing to learn how to do though. an infinitely valuable skill.

True story. I'd love to learn how.

First step is to take photos of every component and post so you can get opinions on what needs/should be replaced and what can stay.

And I know this is a stupid question, but is it a mixte Le Mans or the standard road frame?

Dude, I will be brutally honest. That bike is great and I wouldn't want to hack it.
For $40 you just scored a really cool find of a geared bike, at least in my opinion.

That said, if you still want to hack it, you're gonna need a few things to roll it fixed. And a few more to make it "really" fixed.

Crankset - The current one is a "pressed-on" 2 chainring. You really need a newer three piece crankset. However you don't have to replace the bottom bracket.
Bars - If you're not into drops, then replace em. But I would ride those for a few days at least before you spend any more cash.
Saddle - You'll probably want a more comfortable saddle that has a better riding position. Not totally necessary, but that saddle may be uncomfortable and creeky.
Seatpost - Not necessary, but if you need to go higher than the current setting.
Wheel stuff - The obvious wheel stuff: cog, lockring etc
Chain - If you're getting a new crankset and cog, I would recommend a new chain (as sheldon brown always reminds me when I read his articles)

I think that's it.

I love A Better Cycle, man! Cool guys for sure. It's at 23rd though, wasn't it? 2324 SE Division.

http://bikeportland.org/2007/12/18/a-better-cycle-opens-on-se-division/

Haha.

both my bikes have received the holy treatment. Otherwise I'd volunteer.

longwood:
The bottom bracket and wheel hub sizes aren't as important to match as the rear chainstay. Will that accept a 130 hub?
What kind of hub is it? On conversions, the chainline is important to be straight, but you can live without it being exact. You just have to be careful.

Technically you can use the crank if you use the larger chainring and unbolt the smaller. However, it helps to straighten the chainline if you can move the chainring or add spacers.

Max is NOW!:

Hey, Any of you guys want to volunteer to get converted?
If not I'll see if I can muster up the cash to just build one for the day.

You shell out on a bike that fits me and I'll pay you in back in a month for sure.